Hobart, Lake St Clair and Wild Rivers
After touring Victoria and South Australia in September/October 2013, we flew from Melbourne to Hobart in Tasmania. So, on the first three days of our Tasmania tour, we visited: Hobart city, Lake St Clair, Nelson Falls, and Strahan on the west coast. While in Strahan, we cruised the Macquarie Harbour and Gordon River in Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park.
Hobart
So, it was late afternoon when we arrived in Hobart for an overnight stay at Mayfair on Cavell. After checking in, we went to Salamanca Place for a short walking tour of Hobart. Interesting, but nothing too photogenic. However, it was an opportunity for us to do some shopping and have dinner in Hobart.
Hobart, The Capital of Tasmania
The photo above shows Hobart’s West Point and Sandy Bay from Cavell Street.
After our overnight stay, we set off for Strahan on the west coast to stay a couple of nights. I planned to make several en-route stops, the first being at Lake St Clair National Park.
Lake St Clair National Park
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park is in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Tasmanian Wilderness. It was a two-and-half-hour scenic drive from Hobart through the central highlands to Lake St Clair Road at Derwent Bridge. We purchased a multiple park entry pass at the visitor centre, covering all parks we planned to visit; It was the cheapest option at $60.
The visitor centre ranger informed me that the weather forecast for the following day was snow above 400m. That was OK for our drive to Strahan, but we planned to drive back to the east coast via cradle Mountain National Park. So, it was a little foreboding as the roads to Cradle Mountain were well above 400m.
Platypus Bay at Lake St Clair
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Lake St Clair has extensive trails, but we were time-limited. So, we followed a 5 km loop walk allowing two and half hours to complete. This walk comprised Watersmeet Nature Trail, Platypus Bay Loop and Larmairrenemer tabeltri Aboriginal cultural trail.
Starting from the visitor centre, we followed the Watersmeet Nature Trail to view the confluence of the Cuvier and Hugel rivers. The track passed through a forest of eucalyptus trees; a Bennett Wallaby hopped across the path only a few metres away and started to graze on the vegetation. At Watersmeet bridge, I photographed the confluence of the Cuvier and Hugel rivers.
Then, to the Platypus Bay Loop, an easy-going gravel and boardwalk path. Some ancient Mountain Ash (Eucalyptus regnans) were alongside the gravel path steps. There were two trees: a truncated tree with the top part on the right rotting away and a second still growing strong. When we reached Platypus Bay, we looked for platypus but were out of luck. Continuing around the loop track, I photographed another magnificent old Mountain Ash Tree.
Once back at Watersmeet, we followed Larmairrenemer tabeltri Aboriginal culture walk back towards the visitor centre. It was a very wet area, so moss and lichen flourished. Along the track, a plaque tells the story of the Larmairrenemer Indigenous peoples, Big River Nation, decimation in the 1800s.
After visiting St Clair National Park, we continued driving towards Strahan on the Lyell Highway. So, about an hour later, we stopped at Nelson Falls Nature Trail in the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park.
Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park
The park is part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Tasmanian Wilderness.
Nelson Falls
The cascade is at the end of a 1.4km return short walk from the Lyell Highway. So, we took a leisurely twenty-five-minute stroll through the forest on a gravel and boardwalk path to view the falls.
Nelson River
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It had rained, so the cascade was impressive, and the river was flowing relatively fast. After our walk, we set off for Strahan, another hour’s drive. We passed through Queenstown, with a vast barren landscape resulting from a century of copper mining. An ecological disaster area and such a contrast to the pristine forest surrounding the area.
Strahan
Strahan is a tiny isolated harbourside village on Tasmania’s west coast with marine and tourism industries. Perhaps best known for the Gordon River Cruise around Macquarie Harbour, Gordon River to Wild Rivers National Park Heritage Landing.
We arrived in Strahan late afternoon and checked into Aloft Boutique Accommodation for a two-night stay. Also, we had pre-booked a six-hour Gordon River Cruise for the following day.
Gordon River
Gordon River at Wild Rivers National Park in Tasmania.
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Macquarie Harbour and Gordon River Cruise
Strahan has two cruise boat operators, but most often recommended is World Heritage Cruises (Ref 1). This local company operates the Eagle 35-metre red catamaran. It offers three classes in two cabins: Premium gold seats on the upper deck ensure windows seats in a less crowded environment. So, we booked in advance premium to get good views. Further, the premium gold seats cost included a welcome drink, snack and a buffet lunch during the six-hour cruise.
After leaving the berth, we cruised around Macquarie Heads and through Hells Gates, a 200-metre-wide entrance. We then turned around and back through to Macquarie Harbour. The convicts named the entrance Hells Gates while sailing to the infamous 18th Century British penal colony on Sarah Island. Furthermore, the prison housed the worst convicts from the Australian settlements.
Next, we stopped at the salmon farms before cruising to Sarah Island for a highly informative guided tour. After, we headed for the Gordon River, stopping at Heritage Landing. A short boardwalk through the rainforest, a wild, wet and remote place. It featured the remains of a Huon pine (Lagarostrobos franklinii) tree claimed to be over 2,000 years old.
It had rained on and off for most of the cruise; no surprise, it is in a rainforest.
After cruising back to Strahan, we went to Morrisons Huon Pine Sawmill. The mill gives a talk and demonstration that coincides with the boat’s return. They also have a small sales outlet for timber and manufactured products. Moreover, the mill specialises in salvaged Huon Pine from the Macquarie Harbour coastline (Ref 5 & 6).
After a long day, it was back to our accommodation before dinner in the village and an early night.
Continue the 2013 Tour of Victoria
The following day drove from Strahan, via Cradle Mountain, to Swansea on the west coast; ‘Next’ continues to the Cradle Mountain, Freycinet and Port Arthur webpage.
Or ‘TAS’ to go to the Nature and Wildlife in Tasmania, Australia webpage.
References and Bibliography – Online Resources
1. World Heritage Cruises. [Online] Available from https://www.worldheritagecruises.com.au/ [Accessed 31-Mar-22].
2. Lake St Clair Walks. [Online] Available from https://parks.tas.gov.au/ [Accessed 31-Mar-22].
3. Nelson Falls. [Online] Available from https://parks.tas.gov.au/ [Accessed 31-Mar-22].
4. Franklin-Gordon River National Park. [Online] Available from https://parks.tas.gov.au/ [Accessed 31-Mar-22].
5. Morrisons Huon Pine Sawmill. [Online] Available from https://buysomethingtasmanian.com.au/ [Accessed 31-Mar-22].
6. Huon pine salvage. [Online] Available from https://www.abc.net.au/news/ [Accessed 31-Mar-22].